A British tour guide who has visited North Korea 30 times reveals the surprising reality of daily life behind the secretive nation’s closed borders, all while navigating strict rules that could land unwary tourists in serious trouble.
At a Glance
- Liverpool-born Zoe Stephens has visited North Korea 30 times since 2016, documenting what she calls “normal” everyday life
- North Korea has partially reopened to tourism for the first time since the COVID-19 pandemic
- Tourists must follow strict rules including constant supervision by two guides and avoiding topics like religion or South Korea
- About 90% of North Korea remains off-limits to foreign visitors
Critics accuse Zoe of spreading propaganda by portraying North Korea in a positive light
The “Normal” Side of North Korea
British tour guide Zoe Stephens has made headlines for her controversial portrayal of North Korea as a “normal” country, contradicting its global reputation as an isolated dictatorship. The Liverpool native has visited the totalitarian state 30 times since 2016, using social media platforms like TikTok to share vlogs depicting everyday life in the country. Her content shows North Koreans engaging in activities familiar to Westerners – hiking in mountains, visiting coffee shops, and getting haircuts – activities that humanize a population often reduced to political caricatures in Western media.
Stephens paused her visits during the COVID-19 pandemic when North Korea sealed its borders completely, implementing some of the world’s strictest isolation policies. However, she resumed her tours once the country partially reopened to foreign visitors in 2023. While her content aims to challenge misconceptions about North Korea, critics argue her portrayal glosses over the country’s well-documented human rights abuses, massive military buildup, and the severe restrictions imposed on its citizens.
Strict Rules for Foreign Visitors
Visiting North Korea isn’t like traveling to other countries. All tours begin in Beijing with a mandatory briefing on rules that must be followed to avoid serious consequences. Tourists are never permitted to explore independently and must remain with their assigned guides at all times. Each tour group is supervised by at least two North Korean guides who monitor activities and ensure compliance with government regulations. Photography is heavily restricted, with military installations and certain infrastructure off-limits for pictures.
“Oh, hey guys, I want to tell you the truth about your leaders, they’re actually quite terrible” said Simon Cockerell.
Simon Cockerell, another tour operator who has visited North Korea over 180 times, warns that certain conversation topics can quickly lead to trouble. Religious discussions are particularly problematic and have been a common reason for foreign detentions. Comparisons between North and South Korea should be avoided since they typically favor the South. Most critically, any criticism of the country’s leadership, especially Kim Jong Un, is strictly forbidden. Visitors must also show proper respect to images of North Korean leaders, which are prominently displayed throughout the country.
Controlled Access and Cultural Gaps
Despite what tourists might see, approximately 90% of North Korea remains completely off-limits to foreign visitors. Tours follow carefully planned itineraries, showing only government-approved locations that present the country in the best possible light. Stephens acknowledges the communication barriers with locals, noting that while interactions are possible, they occur under surveillance and are limited by language differences and cultural misunderstandings. These constraints make it difficult for tourists to gain unfiltered insights into genuine North Korean life.
“If this is your only conversation, maybe learn to have another conversation.” said Simon Cockerell.
Tourists are prohibited from bringing or leaving behind anything considered contraband – including religious materials, South Korean cultural products, or foreign publications about North Korea. Smartphones and cameras are thoroughly searched upon departure to ensure no unauthorized photos leave the country. Despite these restrictions, Stephens maintains that North Korea can be safe for tourists who respect the rules. However, the U.S. State Department maintains a “Do Not Travel” advisory for American citizens, highlighting the serious risks of detention without due process.
Tourism as Political Theater
While Stephens insists her content simply shows a non-negative side of North Korea that rarely makes headlines, critics argue that such portrayals serve the regime’s propaganda interests. North Korea carefully manages its international image, and tourism offers a controlled channel to present a sanitized version of life under the Kim dynasty. Other Western visitors, including YouTubers like Mike O’Kennedy, have similarly shared experiences from post-pandemic visits that highlight tourist attractions while providing limited insight into the realities faced by ordinary citizens.
For conservative Americans watching these tourist accounts, the contrast between North Korea’s totalitarian control and American freedoms serves as a stark reminder of the values that distinguish Western democracies from authoritarian regimes. While tourists like Stephens may find “normal” moments in North Korean daily life, the fundamental absence of religious liberty, free speech, and democratic rights remains the defining reality for the country’s 25 million citizens who, unlike foreign visitors, cannot simply leave when their tour concludes.
